The left-hand side of Danube
Those living on the right-hand side of the Danube often say that the best thing about the left-hand side is the view across to the other side of the river. It is true that there are no sights to compete with Visegrad or Esztergom on the left side. However, it has worthy sights of a different sort – the Godollo Hills, Lower Cserhat and Galga Valley, former volcanoes (South Borzsony, Csovar), a limestone mine at Naszaly, the Somlyo Hill of Fot (famous for its grapes), Danube oxbows with wonderful fauna and even a slice of the Great Plain.
Those living on the right-hand side of the Danube often say that the best thing about the left-hand side is the view across to the other side of the river. It is true that there are no sights to compete with Visegrad or Esztergom on the left side. However, it has worthy sights of a different sort – the Godollo Hills, Lower Cserhat and Galga Valley, former volcanoes (South Borzsony, Csovar), a limestone mine at Naszaly, the Somlyo Hill of Fot (famous for its grapes), Danube oxbows with wonderful fauna and even a slice of the Great Plain. Although you can take the quick main road by car on this side of the Danube Bend, it’s far more pleasant to travel aboard a ferry or a train – the latter along the country’s oldest piece of railway track, opened in 1846 between Budapest and Vac. Vac is the left side’s answer to Esztergom. It may be slightly younger, and be an episcopate rather than a primacy, but itwas nevertheless still founded by Hungary’s first king, Saint Stephen. It is one of the country’s most beautiful Baroque/Classicist cities. The downtown has historic importance. It was built by Bishop Kristof Migazzi between 1760 and 1785, and it was during this period that the new cathedral, bishop’s palace and other splendid buildings were unveiled. The fresco of the cupola of the late-Baroque/early-Classicist cathedral was prepared by one of the greatest Central European Baroque painters, F A Maulbertsch. You should also take a look inside the city’s other churches, where you’ll find valuable pieces of art from the 18–19th centuries. The treasures of the episcopate can be seen in the Ecclesiastical Art Museum in the provost’s palace. The “Memento Mori” is a unique exhibition, even by European standards; inside are burial relics from the crypt of the Dominican church that date back 200–300 years. The most peculiar secular monument is the Classicist, late-Baroque Victory Arch, which was built specially to honour the visit of Maria Theresa. Nature lovers should visit the flood plains near Vac, where you can find waterbirds like the grey heron and the cormorant. Conclude your sightseeing tour with a walk along the Danube bank, a swim in the superb local swimming pool, and an authentic fish soup in a local restaurant (such as the Pokol Csarda on Szentendre Island). Following the Danube north from Vac, we next arrive at Veroce. During the early 20th century, the town was a refuge for poets, writers and musicians, and the villas facing the river were built at this time. At Kismaros, a settlement adjacent to Veroce, we can take a trip on the Forest Train. This takes us to the valley of Morgo Creek, and after crossing Szokolya and Kospallag, we reach one of the most beautiful tourist centres in the Borzsony – Kiralyret. Ferenc Rakoczi II and Adam Manyoki, the official painter of Augustus II “the Strong”, Elector of Saxony, were both born in Szokolya. Manyoki’s life and works are presented in the local museum, together with those of another great painter from Szokolya, Janos Visky. If you are more interested in romantic village life and traditional handicrafts – for example the making of goat’s cheese – you should visit the Kaczar farm. Nagymaros is best known for its Gothic, octagonal church tower. From the 15th century, the settlement’s hills were covered with chestnut trees and grapevines. Unfortunately, the region was struck by a vine pest at the end of the 19th century which destroyed the grapes; nevertheless, some of the old cellars can still be found here. Sziv Street – running above the cellars – is famous for offering the very best panoramic view of Visegrad, something that inspired several of the country’s artists. Vac is a good launchpad for trips by train away from the Danube. The first place to visit is the Botanic Garden of Vacratot; here you’ll fi nd one of the best Hungarian plant collections in the garden of the former Vigyazo Castle. Orbottyan is not far away, where (upon registration) you can see the only bell-foundry workshop in the country. The village of Penc in the Cserhat Hills has a charming Village Museum, and some picturesque castle ruins next to Csovar. Fot can be reached from Budapest. Its romantic Catholic church was built by Miklos Ybl, a famous architect of the 19th century. The church – which often hosts prestigious concerts – can be visited with a guide. The crypt of the Karolyi family is also in the church. If you fancy doing something active, head for the watersport centres on the Danube shore. Szodliget and God have yacht ports, and the latter also has an 18-hole golf course. The neighbouring hills have tourist trails and shelters for hikers. Those who prefer extreme sports can go to Dunakeszi or Szokolya for air sports and lawn skiing. Anglers can try their luck along the Danube river bank. Source: Hungarian Tourism Plc