The right-hand side of the Danube

Travel experiences

The landscape to the north of Budapest is shaped by the river and the hills. You can easily get out into the countryside along the winding main road that follows the former Roman Limes, or by taking one of several cycling routes that are being constructed. But the best way to appreciate the river and its sights is to board a boat travelling from Budapest through the Szentendre Danube branch as far as Visegrad. Szentendre, a pearl of the Danube Bend, can easily be reached on the “HEV” train from Budapest’s Batthyany Square. The green train carriages carry passengers between the capital and many smaller settlements beyond. Many people live in these towns and villages and commute to work in Budapest. Szentendre is at the end station of the HEV. Walk along its narrow, cobbled alleys and its winding steps. Serbs settled here after fleeing from the Turks, and they transformed a village into a town with a genuine Mediterranean atmosphere. They constructed a number of churches, and Szentendre has been the cultural and religious centre for Hungary’s Serb population since the 17th century. You can get a feel for their heritage at the Serbian Orthodox Ecclesiastical Art Collection and the Serbian Episcopal Belgrade Cathedral. Examples of contemporary orthodox ecclesiastical art and life can be found in the Baroque-Rococo Blagovesztenszka Church, which has a golden altar screen, soft church music and the smell of incense. The view is beautiful from the hilltop near the Roman Catholic Parish Church – a vivid picture of red rooftops, white walls and yellow churches. For over a century, Szentendre has attracted writers, painters and sculptors. It has dozens of museums and art galleries displaying the works of well-known Hungarian artists, including Jeno Barcsay, Margit Kovacs, Janos Kmetty and Karoly Ferenczy. On the outskirts of the town is the Open-Air Museum, which covers 50 acres of territory and guides you through the heritage and traditions of those who lived in the Hungarian countryside. Here you can try your hand at traditional crafts like pottery, baking and weaving. These activities were part of the everyday life of rural families. If you are interested in other arts like music and acting, be sure to visit the town during the “Szentendre Summer” festival. If you fancy exploring the hills, we can get off the HEV at Pomaz and take the local “yellow” bus or travel on foot to the 700m-high peaks of the Pilis. We can take a short break at Pomaz, and admire the cultural heritage of the town once inhabited by Serbs and later repopulated by Germans and Slovaks. However, Pomaz is also a great starting point for trips to typical villages of the Pilis like Csobanka (with its hill chapel), Pilisszentkereszt (with the ruins of a 12th-century Cistercian Abbey), and the legendary Dobogoko (where, according to the Dalai Lama, “the world’s heart beats”). Many trails begin or end at Dobogoko, and there is a museum dedicated to the traditions of hiking. The Duna-IpolyNational Park region is a haven for lovers of the great outdoors. Here rock climbers can take advantage of the Oszoly Rock, paragliders can launch themselves from a hill peak, and hikers and mountain bikers can follow marked paths running through Dera Canyon, Vaskapu Strait and Holdvilag Dyke. The daring can climb down steep rock walls to reach the Danube, while families can instead make their descent along gentle valleys (such as Apatkuti Valley and Aprily Valley). North of Szentendre is the 31km-long and 3–4km-wide Szentendre Island, which is great for cycling. You can cross the river onto the island by ferry, or via the only bridge at Tahitotfalu. Old willow trees line the island’s shore, which was formed by the alluvia of the river. Feather grass blankets the inner sandy areas of the island in white at springtime; the bays and shoreline attract hundreds of teal throughout the year, as well as other species of bird from time to time. The island is a place of relaxation. You can step back in time at Bodor Farm, which is home to ancient breeds of farm animal. You can also play golf, go horse riding or fishing, and try various watersports. Be sure to stop at Leanyfalu, whose thermal spa is open to guests between May and October. The Csodi Hill stone mine is a geological curiosity at Dunabogdany. As the narrow river valley broadens once more, you’ll arrive at one of the most picturesque Danube settlements – the former capital of Hungary, Visegrad. Here is the royal palace, built in the 14th century by King Charles Robert (Robert Karoly) and reconstructed in Renaissance style in the 15th century by King Matthias. The palace remains in perfect condition, and is famous throughout Europe. Fellegvar (Upper Castle) was built in the 13th century on the hill above Visegrad. It played an important role in the city’s history at times of peace and war alike. You can enjoy the Danube Bend’s most beautiful panorama from the terrace of the castle. The third part of the monument complex is Solomon’s Tower, a residential fortification built inthe 13th century; today it is a venue for exhibitions. Stay a little longer and pay a visit to the Tourist Centre and Yurt Camp on Sibrik Hill, shoot down the summer and winter bob-sleigh track, have a go at mini golf and join one of the countless marked tourist paths. When there’s winter snow, grab your skis and try the ski lift at the nearby Nagyvillam. The neighbouring Park Forest of Pilis is an important hunting range, as well as being popular with hikers. Source: Hungarian Tourism Plc

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The right-hand side of the Danube

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